For my next post I am going to write up a trip I took last week with a couple of friends to Islay, an island off the West Coast of Scotland. Islay is right next to Jura, which is known for its hunting, and the main attraction on this more fertile island is its whiskies. There are eight distilleries on Islay and the distinguishing characteristic that most people will recognise even if they haven't visited is the peated nature of the spirit. This trip was to appreciate smoked malting and peated whisky - something not found normally with other whiskies I've been used to on the East Coast, such as those from Speyside.
On our first day we woke up early and drove to the ferry at Kennacraig in Argyll. The journey across to Port Askaig took about 2 hours and was stunning - we had perfect weather for the crossing and anyone can appreciate the natural beauty of sailing up the tidal channel between Islay and Jura. Immediately after our arrival we drove down a tiny single track road to our first port of call, Caol Ila Distillery, which turned out to be closed for renovation. A mile or two north however, Bunnahabhain was open. The first thing we noticed when we arrived was that the whole area smelled deeply of malting - a welcome smell at 11 in the morning! After a brief tasting we moved on to Bruichladdich on the other side of the north part of the island, a mere 8 or so miles. With a view across the sun-soaked Loch Indaal towards Bowmore we settled down to a tasting from an incredibly friendly staff. Bruichladdich is, unlike many distilleries, privately owned and run still. Although this naturally doesn't make its whisky better or worse, it appealed to me in some sort of sentimental way. The enormous selection of whisky, and even gin and rum, was impressive and certainly eye-opening for someone who knows very little about detailed whisky tasting. Stand-out drams turned out to be their 16 year old Bordeaux cask selection and their 'Octomore'. For the 16s they have casked them in 5 different types of wood, from Pauillac, Margaux, Sauternes, Pomerol and Medoc - the difference in sweetness and depth of flavour purely from the wood ageing was amazing and certainly reflected the characteristics of the wine the regions produce. Definitely one to try for you wine enthusiasts out there! The Octomore we learned is the world's most heavily peated whisky. I was certainly a bit apprehensive about trying this because my only previous experience of peat has been Laphroaig which has never sat that well. Laphroaig and other peated whiskies have a classification of about 30-40parts per million, while this Octomore the lady proudly let us know was 167. With a alcohol percentage of about 60% Cask Strength it was a formidable whisky and worth trying for the experience - it is incredibly intense and quite incredible how they manage to produce something so balanced and so strong.
Following Bruichladdich we saw a bit of the incredible island itself, visiting the remote Machrie Bay on the Western shoreline, with the newest distillery on the island nestled on a farm nearby, Kilchoman. The setting was incredibly serene. Probably due to the time of year it was deserted, but we got the sense that even in the height of summer it would still retain its rugged, remote wilderness. To finish off the day we enjoyed a dram of Bowmore 15 Year Old in the Bowmore Distillery tasting room overlooking the Loch from the other side as Bruichladdich.
Our second and final day on Islay was more blustery and overcast - what we had been expecting from a Scottish Island! We started by driving out to the Mull of Oa, the south western tip of the island which is the most remote part with little more than a scattering of farm houses over ten square miles. On the edge of the cliff there is an American monument to a sunken troop ship lost in 1918 and in the wind it provided a surreal backdrop which seemed to typify the island: its rugged nature and sheer remoteness.
After our dose of culture and exercise we walked from our hotel in Port Ellen eastwards with a view to tasting as the 'big three' of Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. Lagavulin turned out to be closed, but we managed to get our fill of smokey peated whisky at the other two. Laphroaig provided us with a great museum of the distillery and generous tasting drams, but with less of the passion that was evident at Bruichladdich. We had heard that Ardbeg was the best for visitors, however, and we were not disappointed when we trekked the 3 miles out to it. After lunch in the cafe we took a tour of the distillery itself which was extremely informative and detailed the 5 main whiskies they sell today. The most interesting of these is the Alligator which uses charred casks to provide depth of flavour and smokiness to it. The inside of the barrels are burned to about an inch deep to the point where they crack like an alligator skin. The difference is marked from the rest of their whiskies which are all based on the same 10 Year Old - there is a much more complex and developed flavour which isn't harsh or aggressive like other peated whisky I have tried, such as the Laphroaig.
Overall the trip taught me about both whisky and the Western Isles: I learned about the distillation process and about how much peat can affect taste, depending on how smoked it is, and about the differences in each distillery's styles. But more amazing was the island itself: it was simply stunning. The southern coast was rocky and rugged, with enormous cliffs on one end, bays on the other. The north was lush and covered in hidden beaches and beautiful sheer drops to the sea. In terms of it being a visitor 'attraction', I would recommend it as a destination to anyone. The people were extremely friendly, especially at the distilleries. They seem to love being there and working with something so historically rooted there. It was also cheap and easy to get to - the only problem was the issue of the designated driver when heading to the distilleries!
Stand-out Islay whiskies from the trip that are worth ordering when you are next stuck in a bar for what to order would be Ardbeg's Alligator, Bruichladdich's 16YO Bordeaux Casks, The Octomore or Bruichladdich's 'Peat'. Happy drinking and do visit for yourselves.
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